What are you talking about, Jim?

There is a season in Valencia that generates more excitement, more anticipation, and more parties than Christmas. It’s called Fallas. it’s loud. It’s long. And I can’t wait to experience it. And I think I’m going to love it and hate it!

Fallas is a period from March 1 to 19, in which Valencianos celebrate Saint Joseph…at least that’s the official story. Fallas traditions date back to the Middle Ages. It started with the burning of furniture and other wooden items as a way to welcome Spring and honor the carpenter, the father of Jesus.

Over the years, tradition evolved that life size wax dolls were built and burned. These might depict a politician, cleric, or other satirized personality.

And in the 1930’s, the city started investing in the tradition and created competitions among neighborhood groups. These life size dolls, now known as “Ninots” grew and became more and more elaborate and artistic.

With the end of the Franco regime, the celebrations become pointedly more political and satirical.

The local neighborhood associations became known (also) as Fallas. The members are called Falleros. Each Falla hires an artist to design their Ninot and build it with wood, styrofoam, paper mache and other materials.

From the first of March, Valencianos of all ages light firecrackers at all hours of the day or night. There are fireworks. And starting on March 15, the Ninots are burned in the local neighborhood, with the larger ones burned in front of City Hall.

With Fallas, everything is a competition. There is a Fallas Mayor, a type of beauty queen for each Fallas, wearing a traditional dress. From these, a Fallas Mayor is chosen for the whole city, with all of the others serving as her court.

In February (now) models of the Ninots are displayed in a large exposition hall. Everyone who goes to see them can vote on the ones to be saved from the fire (one each from a youth category and an adult category).

Tonight, my friend Rafa and I went to the exposition and I learned a lot about Valencia and Spain culture and politics.

Before I show you a few of the Ninots (there were hundreds!), here is a moment while we were waiting in line to get in. Rafa said to me, “Spaniards are loud!” He’s right. Americans seem like introverts compared to these folks.

Here are some Ninots that stood out to me:

I’m sure I’ll write much more about Fallas as the weeks unfold.

I hope you enjoyed this slice of Valencia culture.